Yes. Though I wouldn’t want to know the exact day if I could help that. Knowing the year or month would be enough to plan. To have a will. To say the things I want to say to those I care about. To make peace with the end. To do what I can of a bucket list and to feel a bit more secure up to that point not worrying about death.
China: has like 300 nuclear weapons, none of them stationed outside their country. Has no forward military bases from which to stage or launch attacks, has limited forward radar visibility of incoming attacks. Has a couple SSBM subs which likely operate entirely in the south China sea from which it can launch. Wants to expand to 1000 by 2030.
Russia: Has over 4000 warheads, most aging. Has no meaningful forward military bases outside their country for staging attacks on the west. Has no meaningful forward radar visibility of incoming attacks from beyond its borders. Has a few SSBM subs from which it can launch.
US: Has over 4000 warheads, many aging. Has many hidden, classified, constantly operating SSBM submarines which regularly intentionally cruise to the north Atlantic (near Russia), the south Pacific (near China), and a variety of other locations. Has ground-launched missiles, an air delivery system. Has world class sonar (included super-sensitive listening stations bolted to the bedrock of the east and west coasts) and aggressive drone campaigns to hunt and constantly track Chinese and Russian missile subs to allow them a first kill. Has forward warning radar systems positioned thousands of miles from its borders in northern Canada, in Europe, in the Pacific on island chains. In addition has a massive, the most massive spy satellite network in operation constantly watching other powers in incredible detail. Has a space force dedicated to among other things sabotaging Chinese and Russian space assets with kill switches or remote disable explosives which could be used in aggression to blind their enemy first. Of all major world powers will have the most warning and most time to react decisively in case of a full scale launch and attempted sneak first strike on them by either Russia or China. Stations nuclear weapons with allies in “sharing” agreements where the US has final say on their use and launch in countries from the UK to mainland Europe near Russia to Turkey, is considering such an agreement with South Korea right on China’s border.
But tell me again how the US is backed into a corner in this situation and has no choice but to build more warheads and pour hundreds of billions that could feed, cloth, shelter, and provide healthcare to its people into new delivery systems which will fatten and enrich defense contractors to the tune of hundreds of billions of overage costs if not trillions for systems that may or may not even work thanks to contractor greed and sloppiness.
Nothing. It’s an automated. Just stop doing it and it’ll decay with time.
Unlike the US which has totally forgiven Iran for the embassy thing in the 70s which was half a century ago and as we know now embraces them as brothers.
And by contrast the US was inviting the attack on its embassy because they had with the help of the British used the CIA (based out of that embassy) overthrown the leadership of Iran and installed a brutal dictatorship. Additionally no lives were lost in the incident itself.
This is the international law equivalent of barging into your neighbor’s house because you hear them having a domestic dispute and in the middle of pistol-whipping both parties stopping to go to their kid’s room and shoot her in the leg. Do you think if you were that kid you’d be cool with the person who did that with premeditation 20 years later? 40 years later? Or would you blame them forever for being an unhinged maniac who injured you, gave you a token apology that claimed it happened by accident when you knew otherwise, gave you compensation (but only after they got compensation for you for some damage you did to their yard in a fit you had later while feeling powerless after their violence against you) and has basically shrugged the whole thing off while using their connections to the law to prevent themselves ever being prosecuted and going around the community promoting themselves as the arbiter of decency and a paragon of law and order and goodness and continuing to lie about their deliberate intent.
So why should they forgive and forget what was never fully admitted to? A crime done by a nation that believes itself not bound by laws or convention trying to operate with impunity as the world’s unappointed emperor at the end of the cold war.
A nation that within the next 6 years no less went on an adventure through the middle east that left hundreds of thousands dead, millions displaced, illegally invaded another nation in Iraq based on lies, etc. This wasn’t a one-off oopsie, this was part of a pattern of behavior. The US has never shown real contrition (which by definition must include admitting it being deliberate instead of trying to obfuscate with lies about it being an accident).
DVD’s max out at about 580p (for PAL, NTSC is 480p), resolutions are measured by the number of horizontal lines of pixels (counted from top to bottom of video/screen), not vertical which at 4:3 square aspect ratio on dvds does tend to be 720 pixels (by contrast full resolution HD video’s number of vertical lines is 1920 while it’s horizontal lines are of course 1080, hence 1080p). You’re not the first person to be confused by this.
Professional encoders who fully understand the encoders and the schemes in use and care about not seeing artifacting or low quality would never intentionally go as low as 300mb for a feature length movie of even an hour. Yes there are people who do such things but they’re not well regarded and it won’t look even passable on anything larger than a phone screen.
Recognized quality groups that seek low sizes might get an animated feature (less bitrate needed due to lack of fine detail in animation vs real film) in SD quality down to around that. But for most live action content the sizes I see from the best of the best concerned with smaller release sizes are in the 900mb to 1.5GB range for 60-90 minute features.
300mb for a 90 minute live action feature even in SD is just not going to look good, some of the groups who get those sizes make them look even half-passable by running pre-filters in virtualdub that smooth, reduce grain and detail, etc before passing to the encoder. That kind of thing is way beyond anything you’re going to learn in a few youtube videos though, that’s advanced stuff with scripting.
Think about it this way, if you shoot for 1GB encodes with 265 or AV1 you can store over 900 movies on a 1tb drive which can be had for well under a hundred dollars.
I would like the best and fanciest algorithms to have least dataloss.
There is no magic that will get you where you want. If you want detail preserved you need more bitrate which translates to larger sizes. Modern codecs like HEVC and AV1 mean you need as much as 1/5th the bitrate you needed with old MPEG2/4 encoding schemes used on DVDs, that’s darn good savings but it has its limits.
Do as you will but anything live action (non-animated) significantly under 1000kbps average bitrate is going to look awful on a 1080p screen and much worse than what it would look like if you popped your dvd in the disc drive and played it from there.
Opus is fine if you’re not worried about compatibility and just playing on a computer.
It’s a shame. I’m using Voyager but it has some critical problems for me that make the experience unpleasant.
Biggest one would be it doesn’t show the username of the poster of a post in any views but when viewing the post. This is important. Certain posters regularly post good, reliable, interesting, funny, etc content. Some I’m even friendly with. Others I know post frivolous things, post straight up fake-news and “jokes” so seeing their name clues me in I don’t need to freak out about something upsetting because it’s fake. And so on. Basically having the name displayed saves me a ton of time otherwise wasted going into lots of threads to see who posted it before backing out again and I’m sure there are plenty of threads I’d otherwise engage with which I don’t because I can’t see the username. There’s also the issue of seeing what instance a user is from. If they’re from a home instance dedicated to a certain thing (perhaps vetted individually) I feel differently than someone from an outside instance.
This was something reddit did on both old and new and it was correct to do so. It’s also something I was used to with Apollo which I used for some time. It feels like half an experience without the user-names shown but I’m guessing it’s an intentional choice on the part of the Voyager dev.
Second biggest one would be the upvote and downvote colors are reversed and it’s messing with me but I could get over it.
If anyone knows any apps like Memmy or Voyager but with usernames always shown or an option to show them in the feed view I’d love to hear of it. I really like the aesthetic design of Memmy best but Voyager is close enough minus that one glaring issue.
Well re-applying thermal paste is a big matter. I’d try stressing it and seeing if you can force it after cleaning the vents.
So do things to stress the processor and see if you can force it to happen repeatedly. If it is a thermal issue you should be able to cause it by inducing high load. If you can’t it points more towards other issues. A fault in RAM or the motherboard for example, a loose module or connection, etc.
And just FYI if you need more help in future this community isn’t intended for it. Try posting in a tech or computer help community for a better chance more people engage.
Randomly or after a set time of use or intense use? Could be processor is overheating past safety thresholds (new thermal paste could fix this IF that’s the issue).
I’d try cleaning vents and fans before changing thermal paste though. Could be they’re clogged and not working right.
Failing that it could be multiple things. But I’d try to address cooling being adequate first. Make sure vents are unobstructed during use. Use it on a flat hard surface, clean the vents with a vacuum and/or canned air duster.
As others mentioned having a good encoder is an issue for AAC. And some skills in using it, tuning, etc.
Nearly all quality releasers now use AC3/EAC3 or FLAC. Tigole is the last one who uses AAC to my knowledge and the rest of the QXR group rolls their eyes at it.
You’re not going to get a meaningful reduction in bitrate and file size with AAC over EAC3/AC3 without loss of quality. We’re talking maybe you can shave 2-300kbps off an AAC version versus an AC3 5.1 track. And it’s tricky. So much so no one other than that one person I mentioned bothers. At least no one accepted in the higher echelons as competent in creating acceptably transparent encodes.
If a source has EAC3 (itself capable of up to halving the bitrate required vs AC3) or AC3 I’d recommend keeping it as they tend to already be efficient. They’re also universally compatible as codecs. Re-encode those big 1500kbps DTS tracks and those even bigger monster lossless Dolby and DTS tracks but I’d leave efficient codecs like AC3 alone.
That said it’s up to you what sounds good. If you’re using lower end stuff and can’t tell the difference after trying a few different test videos with different types of sounds then go for it.
/r/opensignups (sadly the lemmy version seems abandoned at the moment).
Monitor that daily if you can. Torrent leech in particular should be opening their doors soon for open registration (they usually do in spring, if not it won’t be long as they do so twice a year anyways). TL is a great starter and honestly many people will never need more. Very easy to maintain on with great free leech on anything over a certain size which ends up meaning all remuxes and most TV show seasons.
/r/opensignups (sadly the lemmy version seems abandoned at the moment).
Monitor that daily if you can. Torrent leech in particular should be opening their doors soon for open registration (they usually do in spring, if not it won’t be long as they do so twice a year anyways). TL is a great starter and honestly many people will never need more. Very easy to maintain on with great free leech on anything over a certain size which ends up meaning all remuxes and most TV show seasons.
Don’t bother with M-discs. They only provided a meaningful advantage in the DVD era. I’ve researched this a bit myself and consensus at least in the data hoarding community is use 2 Blu-ray Discs from two different batches (bought 6 months apart). Which still comes out cheaper or the same as branded M-Discs. (Though that may be overkill and truth be told as long as you test the disc and it’s data done months after writing you’ll tend to catch any rare bad ones)
Truth is, quality Blu-ray Discs have all the features that would engender M-disc type longevity in the design spec. Just make sure they’re not low to high (LTH) discs which are inferior but always marked as such at least.
Don’t get no-name cheap ones either, get Verbatim, Sony, some other good Japanese brand. For Verbatim specifically their discs marked MABL on the package are better.
Always burn data at lower speeds too, less errors.
Blu-ray remuxes (even a public site like rutracker keeps a lot of English commentary tracks in the fuller size releases), certain releasers like QxR, Sartre, HEVK who tend to include them. Someone called budgetbits on leetx also tends to include them alongside rifftrax. Important thing is to check the media info these include on the website to see if commentary tracks are present.
Most remuxes have commentary tracks passed through. Heck, good encoder groups like QxR, TAoE and many Internal’s retain them.
I’ll agree remuxes generally drop extra video files though you don’t strictly need an iso for those, just a full BD disc dump in folder form which are far more common than ISO’s though far less common than single file remuxes.
I don’t think LoTR 4K’s changed the extras and behind the scenes from 1080p either so finding disc folder dumps of the old HD releases should suffice for OP if that’s all they want.
House centipede. They eat other bugs and while scary looking are harmless. They like spiders appear from time to time without anything being wrong. They’re just looking for other bugs to eat.
Most useful unique website thing rarbg had by far was full mediainfo listing for every single upload on site. You could immediately tell what you were getting and even dead torrents became useful by virtue of retaining chapter data that could be applied to another release.
Also, call me skeptical but IMO without access to scene FTP’s or week-1 access to (and automation on a large scale of re-uploading from) cabal trackers like BTN to get the good content from your site frankly risks ending up just another mirror among many others like lime torrents for existing public net and low hanging private tracker fruit. (If you have mediainfo for all files that adds a lot of value though)
IMO the real need left by rarbg is not for more re-hosting of content many others have but for publishing web-dl’s others don’t have, not of just new series (which everyone does as ep’s drop) but older movies and older series without other good 1080p or 4k releases available. Even today I see many old TV series the only HD releases available are old rarbg packs and this includes across multiple of the biggest PT’s.
Of course I wish anyone willing to run a big general tracker luck (assuming they’re honest and intent isn’t to distribute malware ofc).
You could look into MOCA adapters if the house has existing coaxial cable installed through walls for an old cable TV system. Plug an extra access point or two in and connect back to your main router via a few sets of adapters. It can cost a bit up front but it’s pretty reliable and if you buy old used 2.0 models you can save some money. (Just make sure they’re the same manufacturer)
Otherwise your options would be power line adapters to access points (bad, lots of chance for interference, neighbors adding a heavy appliance could break it).
Or nicer extending units located more closely together though if your walls are masonry or brick that may not help.
Also, inelegant and I hate to mention it but you could buy long, flat Ethernet cables, run them along the baseboards with the special retaining staples and connect that way to access points, though it does require space of a few cm door clearance in every doorway it has to traverse. Also flat cables technically violate Ethernet spec for preventing interference but in most single family homes interfere isn’t a big issue away from power supplies and runs so it would probably be okayish.
Looking up technical specs for the drive it’s often mentioned on data sheets (often as conventional magnetic recording drive or else shingled if SMR). Other than that third parties have compiled lists and many but not all Amazon pages in tech specs mention it if you look closely. Try searching drive-model and cmr and then smr and see what comes up. Beware some drive families different sizes of drive may be cmr vs smr. WD red pro and ultra star DC line are all CMR, WD blues many are SMR. WD black as far as I know are all CMR. WD red (non-pro) can be SMR I believe.
I’ll be honest, the real difference is getting a 7200 vs 5400 RPM drive, particularly one with a larger cache, I’d always go for 7200 except for purely offline backup stuff.
In terms of external drives and shucking, it’s largely a crapshoot. You can try searching what drives others found in a model, however they’re subject to change.
Bottom line: If money is tight and it’s just you, you can absolutely do SMR and 5400 RPM external drives and have a smooth experience as long as we’re talking re-encodes not raw Blu-ray remuxes (I have seen an external 5400RPM SMR drive choke and fail trying to smoothly play a file at 24MB/s bitrate but it worked fine with 10MB/s re-encodes, even those with burst rates of 17MB/s). If you can afford a bit more try to go 7200 and CMR.
Beware MDD at the top is alleged to sell drives they’ve refurbished which are essentially used but with wiped smart. Other cheap deals… check sellers. If it’s not sold and shipped by Amazon it could be slightly used drives (usually third party sellers do a mix so some people get brand new, others not so much). Also beware third party sellers and Amazon itself often sell OEM drives without warranty. I always check the serials online before opening the anti-static bag to make sure it’s in warranty.
Also: shucks.top
You need to wait and watch for the good deals but they come around multiple times a year.
Also, understand there are certain storage ranges to get these prices. Generally 8-18TB drives are best deals per TB. You pay a premium for 20-22 top size drives as well as for smaller drives like 2-4TB. 14TB seems to be the current sweet spot most of the time.
Lastly. Understand SMR drives are alright for backups but not ideal for streaming high bitrate content from or using to seed files. CMR is better.
Hamas is a legitimate resistance group exercising their legitimate, legal right under international law to violently resist unlawful colonization, occupation, land-theft, and genocide. They have every right to exist, they have every right to use violence against settlers who should leave and give back the stolen land.
If you want more moderate types, know that the zionists intentionally crushed them and propped up Hamas to create just this kind of argument and by spouting it you’re carrying water for them. Only the end of the occupation and the formation of a full Palestinian state will result in the breathing room for the creation of moderate groups and opinions.