We have both Linux and Windows machines in my team. We do all the work in Linux, and register hours in Windows. We also all have iPhones that we only use for 2FA.

I really enjoy the split spacebars. I use those for layers: hold for a navigation layer on one, for some UI and function keys on the other. With the remapping software Keyd. If the split spacebars are not a thing for you, then I’m inclined to think the Shinobi is nicer, given the palmrest and sound profile.

Thanks for doing the math! I’m not quite sure I follow: why is the lengths different for row and columns on the Mantis? Are you calculating to the press point of your sculpted keycaps?

Super nice project!

The custom keycaps, that’s a dream. I’d love if there was a good method for that. I laser cut my board myself, too (but at a mkser space), and would love to make custom keycaps for it.

To speed up the process and perhaps get less errors, could you possibly do all of them at once?

Since you cut the plate, you have the drawing, so you could place the legends appropriately on that, then place keycaps on all switches and press play?

Maybe you could start with small dots on four corner keycaps in one go to calibrate/not risk bad prints on a full keycap set.

That’s a great question - sorry for the slow reply! I bought some from a mechanical keyboard online shop that had a sale, but maybe you can find some as cheap elsewhere.

I bought SPRiT MX Multistage 55 M1 and SPRiT MX Extreme 45s Slow springs. I’m thinking I’ll try the 55g ones first. They were just really cheap, so I bought the 45g, too.

I like the U4Ts (there is a also a silent version called “U4Ts”, just FYI.)

I haven’t tried a ton of switches either, but the U4Ts are the tactile switches I have tried that I like the most for their noticeable tactility. And I’ve been using 68g, which maybe even hides some tactility. So I’ve bought some 55g two-staged springs I want to swap to.

If you don’t know it, then there is an immense collection of switch reviews which also covers the U4Ts: https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores/blob/master/U4T (62g).pdf

What have you tried that you didn’t like? And did you consider swapping springs in some that you do like? Then you can those as light as you’d like.

Did you try Gazzew U4T?

A very interesting read, and really cool looking! I’d really like to try the keycaps in v. 0.3!

I’m curious about this point:

With square keys, each key has eight neighbours, but the diagonal neighbours are about 1.4 times further away than orthogonal ones and therefore harder to reach for the same finger.

Say I arrange square keys in columns with a 0.5u offset. Then each key also only has six neighbors. I wonder how that compares distance-wide to hexagonal keys.

Edit: the Klacker BS does this, but offsets the rows instead.

It looks neat! What are thode keycaps? Self-printed?

I think you can get those key placements on the Shura? If you look at this layout options image and think to apply the green and blue swaps, isn’t that HHKB on all but the bottom row?

Perhaps the TEX Shura?

It has a number of options for keys on various positions. The bottom row also works for some “unsopprted” combinations of keys, e.g. With 2u spacebars and different mods on the outside.

Fair warning though: using the trackpoint requires either using the standard keycaps, or cutting into your own. Similarly the arrow key cluster uses 0.8u keys, meaning you need to shave off parts of regular keycaps. I’ve down this to use Cherry profile caps.

You’ll do that plenty in a lot of the hotswap boards, too. You typically have to place the PCB yourself, plus you’ll have fun with foam and tape under it, swichtes and keycaps on top. And then you can start modding your switches, lubing and filming them. There’s lots to do, but there aren’t that many different, seperate components once the PCB is assembled for you.

I’d say next level after that requires soldering – and it seemed like in another comment you weren’t too keen on that?

You nailed it, I think!

I feel you on the right Shift! It’s optional on the TEX Shura which I’ve used recently, and I of course went for the u1, too. I’m surprised how often I reach that far with my pinky! But it looks nice :D

PS. for some nice out-of-time keyboard and computer shots, I can recommend the show Loki. They have so sparked my desire to find a 4:3 display and build an softly curved, keyboard and display-integrated pc case with an orange epoxy resin lacquer finish. How one can dream.

Ok, I gæs it’d be about the same shipping to Denmark. Compared to sourcing from ThinkPad keyboards, I find it very appealing to not have to risk popping the pin pads of the pcb when desoldering the keyboard ribbon cable. I’ve caused a few casualties.

Edit: Ah, I see you had to undsolder a ribbon cable from the controller board, too.

For me, the left and right also act as layers, if held and something else is pressed. Then I can access a e.g. navigation from the homerow.

Super nice! I really like the layout design and the overall metal and wood look!

Super nice!

How much did you pay for the trackpoint and shipping? It’s great to hear that you can just email Sprintek!

Nice that the RP2040 doesn’t require a reset circuit! I just finished a handwired with a ATMega32U4 ProMicro where I needed to remove a resistor to clear the D5 pin for USART. That was quite a painful process overall. This seems significantly easier!

Does it have on-board remapping? If so, maybe reset them with the Razer software, see if that makes a difference. Maybe somebody did something silly.

If not, then I’d disassemble it, connect to a pc and see what happens when you connect the pins of the switches of the keys that don’t work. Do you get a response? Then it sounds like a bad switch. If not, then I suppose it’s the pcb.

What keys don’t work?

If you can solder, you can quite cheaply build your own ergo prototype, without habing to 3D print or buy PCBs: https://golem.hu/guide/cardboard-prototyping/

I did this, and am very happy. I got to stagger the keys as I like, place my thumb keys nicely, and know I can do it again easily and cheaply if I want something changed. Time’s not free of course, but I value the freedom this gives me.

Corne with trackpoint from holikeebs?